A sudden downpour on the M1, spray blasting off a B-double, a dark suburban street with oil lifting from the bitumen - this is when small car issues become big visibility and stopping-distance problems. These essential wet weather car checks take only a little time, but they give you a much better chance of seeing clearly, braking predictably and getting home without white-knuckling the wheel.
Essential wet weather car checks start with visibility
Your windscreen is not just glass in wet weather. It is the barrier between you and brake lights, lane markings, cyclists, pedestrians and the car in front. If your wipers chatter, smear or leave a hazy strip right through your line of sight, they are not doing their job.
Inspect the wiper blades closely
Lift each blade and run a finger along the rubber edge. Look for splits, hard patches, loose sections and edges that have gone uneven. Sun, heat, dust and tree sap can age rubber faster than most drivers expect, especially after an Australian summer.
Then test them with washer fluid on the screen. A healthy blade should clear water in a smooth, even pass. Streaks, missed patches, shuddering and squeaking are all signs that the rubber, blade pressure or fitment needs attention. Do not wait for the next storm to find out your wipers are finished.
Fitment matters as much as blade quality. A generic blade with a loose or awkward adapter can sit poorly on the windscreen, skip at speed and leave water behind. Vehicle-specific blades are designed to follow the screen properly, while an aerodynamic spoiler helps maintain pressure when highway spray and crosswinds pick up.
RORIWIPERS offers exact-fit replacement blades selected by make, model and year, so you can avoid compatibility guesswork and get a secure click-on installation. Quality rubber and a solid connector are not flashy upgrades, but in hard rain they deliver the result that counts: a rock-solid, streak-free wipe.
Top up washer fluid and clean the glass
Washer fluid is often forgotten until the windscreen is covered in muddy spray. Plain water can work in a pinch, but proper windscreen wash is better at cutting through grime, insect residue and oily film. Keep the reservoir topped up and make sure both jets hit the glass cleanly rather than dribbling onto the bonnet.
Clean the inside of the windscreen too. A greasy interior film can create brutal glare from headlights and streetlights, even when the outside looks fine. Use a clean glass cloth and avoid leaving dashboard shine products near the screen.
Check your tyres before the rain finds the weak point
Tyres shift water away from the road surface. When tread is low, channels cannot move enough water and the tyre begins to ride on top of it. That is aquaplaning, and it can leave steering and braking feeling suddenly vague or completely disconnected.
Measure tread depth and inspect wear
The legal minimum tread depth is 1.5 mm, but legal is not the same as confidence-in-heavy-rain. If your tyres are getting close to that limit, replace them before the wet season or a long road trip. More tread depth generally means better water evacuation, although tyre design, vehicle weight and road surface also play a part.
Check the full width of each tyre, including the inner shoulder. Uneven wear can point to alignment or suspension issues, and a tyre that looks acceptable from the outside edge may be far more worn where you cannot easily see it. Look for cuts, bulges, embedded screws and cracked sidewalls while you are there.
Set pressures when tyres are cold
Use the tyre-pressure label, usually found inside the driver’s door opening or in the owner’s manual, rather than relying on the maximum number stamped on the tyre. Check pressures before driving, when tyres are cold.
Under-inflation makes the car feel less precise and can affect how the tread works through standing water. Over-inflation can reduce the contact patch and make the ride harsher. If you are loading up the wagon, SUV or ute for a trip, use the manufacturer’s recommended loaded pressure where applicable.
Do not forget the spare. A flat spare is dead weight when you are stuck on a wet shoulder.
Make sure brakes feel sharp and predictable
Wet roads lengthen stopping distances. Worn tyres, worn brakes and a distracted driver compound the problem fast. You cannot inspect every brake component in the driveway, but you can spot warning signs before they demand attention.
Listen for grinding, persistent squealing or a scraping sound. Notice if the brake pedal feels spongy, sinks further than normal or pulls the vehicle to one side. A steering-wheel shake under braking can also signal warped discs or other issues worth having checked by a qualified mechanic.
After driving through deep puddles, brake gently when it is safe to do so. This helps dry the discs and confirms the pedal response feels normal. Never test your brakes aggressively in traffic or on a slick road.
Brake fluid deserves a look as well. If the level is low or the fluid is very dark, arrange an inspection. Low fluid may indicate worn brake pads or a leak, neither of which belongs on a wet-weather commute.
Test every light, not just the headlights
Rain makes cars blend into grey roads and grey skies. Your lights are not only there to help you see - they help other road users judge where you are and how fast you are moving.
With the ignition on, check low beams, high beams, parkers, indicators, brake lights, reversing lights and number-plate lights. Ask someone to stand behind the vehicle while you press the brake pedal, or use a reflection in a garage door. Check that the lenses are clean and not clouded over with grime.
In rain, low-beam headlights are usually the smart choice. Daytime running lights may illuminate the front without switching on rear lights in some vehicles, which leaves you less visible from behind in heavy spray. Fog lights are not a substitute for normal headlights and can create glare when conditions are merely wet.
Check the battery, demister and air conditioning
A rainy morning often means more electrical load: wipers, headlights, rear demister, cabin fan and air conditioning can all be running at once. If the engine cranks slowly, the battery warning light appears, or terminals are crusty with corrosion, get the battery tested before it leaves you stranded in a servo car park.
Your demister is equally critical. Switch on the front demister and check it clears the glass quickly. Air conditioning helps remove moisture from cabin air, so run it with the demister when windows fog up. If the system smells musty, blows weakly or takes ages to clear condensation, it may need a cabin filter replacement or an air-conditioning check.
Inspect door and boot seals for tears or sections that have pulled loose. Water entering the cabin can fog the windows, damage carpet and create electrical problems over time.
Pack for the conditions, then change how you drive
The best wet-weather preparation still needs calm driving. Keep a small torch, tyre-pressure gauge, phone charging cable and dry microfibre cloth in the car. For regional travel, add drinking water and basic emergency supplies. It is practical preparation, not overkill.
Once rain starts, slow down before you reach standing water. Leave more room to the car ahead, avoid sudden steering inputs and brake progressively. Cruise control is best left off in heavy rain, as you want immediate control of throttle response if traction changes. If the vehicle aquaplanes, ease off the accelerator smoothly, keep the wheel pointed where you want to go and avoid stamping on the brakes.
Never assume a flooded road is shallow because another vehicle made it through. Water can hide washouts, debris and depth changes, while moving water can be far more powerful than it looks. If you cannot judge the depth safely, turn around.
Give these checks a quick run before the next wet commute or weekend escape. Clear vision, sound tyres and predictable controls turn miserable weather from a gamble into a drive you are prepared to handle.